Step 1 / 7
Preset
Step 01 — Choose Build Type
What Are You
Building?
Pick the preset that matches your motor and voltage. This fills in sensible defaults — you can customise every measurement in the next step.
🚲
Kids E-Bike
24V · 250W · 16–20"
Geared hub. 36 spoke. 14G SS. 2-cross. Low tension. Light build.
🚴
E-Bike Standard
36V–48V · 250–750W · 26"
Geared/direct hub. 36 spoke. 13G SS. 3-cross. Standard build.
⚡
E-Bike Performance
52V–72V · 1000–1500W · 26"
Direct drive. 36 spoke. 12G SS. 3-cross. High tension.
🏍️
E-Moto Entry
60V–72V · 3kW · 17"–18"
Direct drive hub. 36 spoke. 12G SS. 3-cross. 17" moto rim.
🏁
E-Moto Sport
72V · 5–8kW · 17"
High power. 40 spoke. 11G SS. 4-cross. Heavy duty.
🔥
Max Power
72V–96V · 8–10kW · 17"
Race spec. 40 spoke. 10G SS. 4-cross. Moto grade rim required.
Step 02 — Hub Motor & Rim Dimensions
Enter Your
Measurements
Enter your hub motor and rim dimensions. The interactive diagram on the right shows each measurement — click any part to highlight it.
🔵 Rim
Measure inside rim — nipple seat to nipple seat
⚙️ Hub Motor
Geared≈65–80mm · Direct≈90–115mm · QS273≈130mm
Typical: 2.5mm e-bike · 3.0–3.5mm e-moto
From axle centre to LEFT flange centre
Usually same as left on hub motors
📐 Live Calculation
Hub Motor — Interactive
Click any part
━ Flange PCD
━ Flange offset
━ Spoke holes
━ Axle
Step 03 — Lacing Pattern
Choose Your
Spoke Pattern
For electric hub motors — always use cross lacing. More crosses = stronger torque handling but heavier spokes. Choose based on your motor power.
| Pattern | Power Range | Spoke Length | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Radial (0x) | NEVER for EV | Shortest | Front non-drive ONLY |
| 2-Cross | 24V–36V | Short | Kids, light e-bikes |
| 3-Cross | 36V–72V | Standard | All e-bikes ✓ recommended |
| 4-Cross | 72V–96V | Longer | E-motorcycle 3kW+ |
| Snowflake | 36V–72V | Mixed | Show builds, 36sp only |
| Twisted | 72V+ torque | Mixed | Max torque one direction |
Pattern Preview
Select a pattern
━ Drive side
━ Non-drive
● Flange
Step 04 — Spoke Length & Gauge
Your Calculated
Spoke Specs
Exact spoke lengths calculated from your hub and rim measurements. Gauge selection based on your motor power.
⚠️ Always use stainless steel only for electric motor wheels. Zinc/chrome spokes corrode and snap under motor torque within months.
📏 Gauge Reference
| Gauge | Dia (mm) | Use |
|---|---|---|
| 10G | 3.5 | 5kW+ e-moto |
| 11G | 3.0 | 3–8kW e-moto |
| 12G | 2.6 | 1–3kW perf e-bike |
| 13G | 2.3 | 250–1000W e-bike |
| 14G | 2.0 | Kids / light |
🔢 Formula
L = √(R² + F² + C² − 2RF·cos(θ))
− holeDia/2 + (nippleLen − 3)
Enter measurements to see values
− holeDia/2 + (nippleLen − 3)
Enter measurements to see values
Step 05 — Lacing & Truing
Build & True
Your Wheel
Follow these 12 steps in exact order. An electric motor wheel must be built tighter and trued more carefully than a regular bicycle wheel — motor torque is unforgiving.
1
Prepare All Components
Count every spoke and nipple. Apply spoke prep (anti-seize compound) to every nipple thread before lacing — this prevents galvanic corrosion between aluminium nipples and SS spokes, and allows future adjustment.
🔴 Do not use Loctite on spoke nipples — they must remain adjustable.
2
Insert Key Spoke First
Place hub inside rim. Insert first spoke through hub flange from INSIDE (spoke head sits inside flange). Thread into the rim hole immediately to the RIGHT of the valve hole. Tighten nipple 3 turns only. This is your reference spoke — everything aligns from here.
3
Lace Drive Side Group 1 (9 of 18 spokes)
From key spoke, skip one rim hole. Insert next spoke into every other flange hole going in the same direction. For 3-cross: each spoke passes OVER 2 spokes then UNDER the 3rd (the last one it crosses). Thread nipple 3 turns. Complete all 9 spokes.
⚠️ Double-check crossing direction before any tensioning. Wrong direction cannot be fixed without complete disassembly.
4
Lace Drive Side Group 2 (mirror image)
Remaining 9 flange holes on same side — spokes go OPPOSITE direction to group 1. These fill the rim holes between group 1. The two groups create a mirror-image X pattern.
5
Lace Non-Drive Side
Second flange fills remaining rim holes. Offset half a hole spacing from drive side. For a symmetric hub motor — both flanges are identical, same pattern, same crossing. Check each spoke crosses correctly before threading nipple.
6
Initial Tension — Finger Tight All
Go around wheel tightening every nipple with fingers until all spokes are just barely taut — no slack but no real tension. Rim should be roughly centred over hub. Correct any obvious gross misalignment now.
7
First Pass — ½ Turn Each
Using a spoke wrench — go around every single spoke, turn each nipple exactly ½ turn (180°). Repeat 3–4 full laps until spokes start to feel tight. Work evenly around the entire wheel every pass — never tighten one area more than others.
🔴 One over-tightened spoke will pull the rim toward that flange. Always work evenly.
8
Lateral Truing (Side-to-Side)
Mount in truing stand. Bring indicator close to rim. Spin and find wobble. If rim pulls LEFT: tighten right-side spokes OR loosen left-side spokes at that point. Work in ¼ turn steps. Target: ±0.5mm e-bike.
✓ Tightening a spoke always pulls rim TOWARD that flange side.
9
Radial Truing (Round / Hop)
Move indicator to check vertical hop. High spot (rim too close) = loosen spokes in that zone. Low spot = tighten. Target: ±0.5mm. Alternate between lateral and radial truing — adjusting one affects the other.
10
Check Dish (Centring)
Lay wheel flat — measure gap from rim to flat surface each side. Or use a dishing tool. Both gaps must be equal for a centred wheel. If off: tighten all spokes on one side and loosen all on the other by the same amount (e.g. ¼ turn all).
11
Stress Relief — Critical Step
Grab pairs of parallel spokes and squeeze firmly together. The wheel will creak — this is correct. Repeat on every pair around the whole wheel. Retrue after. Repeat stress relief at least twice.
🔴 NEVER skip stress relief on electric motor wheels. The motor torque will stress-relieve the wheel violently on first hard acceleration — and it will go out of true immediately.
12
Final Tension & Tone Check
Pluck each spoke. All spokes on the same side should be within 2 semitones of each other. Target pitch: F#3–A3 (12G). Use a spoke tension meter if available. All done — well-built EV wheel lasts 5,000+ km without adjustment.
✓ Save your spoke length spec — next build will be much faster.
🎯 Target Tension by Gauge
Step 06 — Parts List
Your Complete
Parts List
Everything needed to build your wheel. Based on your exact configuration.
✅ All components available from Camytrade International · 647-960-0983 · camytrade.ca · Scarborough, Toronto
⚙️
Wheel Spec Ready!
Your electric wheel build specification is complete. Print it or call Camytrade to order all components.